Friday, September 25, 2015

WCT: Some Thoughts

  • When I booked the WCT in March for all of us I had no clue what the weather would be. But I had to book. The time in August appears to be very popular and when I looked 4 hours later all spots for this time of the trail were booked.
  • This blog might give the impression that the trail is readily doable with younger kids and more heavyweight folks like me. I do want to point out that we had exceptionally good weather conditions this year and yes the folks in the 6 to 8w before us had it as well: The weather forecast for the Pacific Rim National Park was a for a while part of my browser tool bar and I recall envying the folks who had these superb conditions in June/July and hoping that the weather would last. It did last and it made a huge huge difference. British Columbia experienced an exceptionally sunny and rain free summer in 2015 (an el ninjo summer I believe). We just had one so so day (yes, I said I experienced a bit misery but in comparison to what could have been this was nothing and we all understood that). A spell of 3 to 5 rainy days would have been a different proposition to cope with. Likely we would have managed it. Maybe we would have given up and returned before Nitinat Narrows to Bamfield. Who knows. All of us have done week long hikes before in our past.
  • Some of what is going on hiking the trail is mental. At some points the tree roots definitely felt like getting in the way of making progress to me. My sisters appeared to cope much much better during that day! There is a certain strain of having to watch every step. It is not about stamina alone.There is no updated weather forecast available once you are on the trail. This uncertainty increases until about two thirds into the trail and causes planning uncertainty. During the final third of the trail this lack of information improves because we heard more recent weather forecasts from people hiking the opposite way.
  • I think it was a good thing to follow the recommended path from north to south. The north feels a bit easier and is generally a bit flatter. It allows you to get a bit more gradually used to everything. Also the backpack gets a bit lighter and generally the fitness level goes up. I could also imagine cases for the opposite opinion: If someone is already very fit (lets say just coming from the Rocky Mountains) it could be an advantage to get to Thrasher Cove and Camping Creek within the first two nights. You are still well nourished and feeling strong. You know that likely the worst is behind you and you can take your time and enjoy the remainder, even considering an additional break day around Carmanah. We always wondered a bit if the southern portion of the trip was really this more difficult and together with the weather uncertainty it kept us moving forward. At the end of the day the northern section has its challenges as well. It is not all easy-peasy there.
  • I could have packed lighter. Did we really need a tarp (my tarp was a normal tarp not a super lightweight thing)? I probably should have taken the teapot out of the Trangia cooking set. We never used the teapot on the trail. I could have done with one or 2 sets of T-shirts and underwear less. There are plenty opportunities to wash the sweat out of a T-shirt with plain water (no detergent needed) and reuse it. My rain poncho was single unit for me and the backpack. What I really needed was a light poncho for my backpack alone since I had a rain coat with me anyway. I could have taken the coins out of my wallet and left them in the car. Also my backpack was a standard travel type backpack which had a low gravity point and the weight wasn't supported by my hips as well as it could be. Furthermore it had a small second outer backpack clipped into the bigger one (think about having a small handy backpack to walk around in towns) that bumbled around at times when navigating the tree roots. Hansi's backpack looked ergonomically much better.
  • Shoes are an interesting topic: I had my usual heavy boots I use in the mountains for the last 20 years. I think they served me well. However I saw one person hiking the trail with what looked like a fancy sandal. I have no idea how she avoided clobbering her toes but for sure in that forested section she moved swiftly. Some people used super lightweight hiking shoes and seemed to be happy with them. I have no idea how these shoes perform in muddy and moist conditions and how they avoid the tiny stones without gators. A lot of athletic types seemed to prefer them.
  • Buying the gravity filter from MSR in Vancouver was a very good investment. Initially I thought I was going to buy another of the usual hand pumping devices from Katadyn (I have a smaller one from ages ago). However the guy at MEC convinced me that the MSR gravity water filter was the way to go considering the size of our group. I shelled out the bucks. No more hand pumping. And we had plenty of water at all times during the trail. The flow rate of the filter was good. The waiting times to get 4 to 16l of water filtered were no problems. Sometimes we simply filled the water bag and brought it back to the camp site and hanged it up there on a branch and filtered the water as needed. It is probably overkill for a single person or a pair. But for a group of 7 it was ideal. I am not a fan of using chemicals for water treatment. But I do realize that they are a popular alternative.
  • I should have read some of the guide books. Somehow I did not come across them. I had a pi times thumb estimate that we would need about 7 to 8 days for the trip and planned for 1 rest day or 2 additional emergency or rainy days for a maximum of 10 days. Actually most people seem to complete the trip in 6 or 7 days. 5 days feels pushy to me. 8 days definitely allows for a break day somewhere in hindsight. The time spent on the trail possibly depends less on the weather. At some point you have to hike regardless of the weather and stand up earlier and hike longer if the way is really muddy and slowing a group down.
  • Most groups probably fall into patterns of campground use. There isn't much opportunity to avoid Tsusiat Falls on the way south. Unless someone books the "luxury" tent operated by the First Nation folks halfway into the 17km section or decides to stay at Klanawa (which is nice as well). It is probably possible to get from the north to Klanawa or Tsusiat in one day if a group starts early at Pachena Bay and its fitness levels are good. Conversely I can imagine to hike out to the north access point from Tsusiat in one day to Pachena Bay. A warm shower is waiting there and showing up late is not an issue. Walbran Creek also feels like a natural stopping point before heading in the forest section because of its beauty. It is possible to continue hiking beyond Cribbs Creek and stay at Carmanah when coming north via the 17km. But why rush the beautiful area between Cribbs and Walbran Creeks.
  • Logistics: The normal access via car to Bamfield appears to be via Cowan Lake. The logging road junctions do not necessarily have signs. It is possible to get lost. We took a picture of a map in the Parks Canada house at Gordon River before driving the logging roads. I would seriously consider using the 'Lady Rose' ship from Port Alberni the next time (especially since Port Alberni is well serviced by public transportation from Nanaimo or Victoria). Using the WCT bus shuttle from Gordon River access to Pachena Bay access is also a good choice. Yes you have to fork over money for the shuttle. And yes the parking lot for a car has to be paid there as well. But at the trip end you are were your cars are and one can go back to civilization. There is no cell phone service in Bamfield or in the Port Renfrew areas. There are land line phone spots and some spots in Bamfield offered interestingly decent free Wifi.
  • At this time of the year (August) there seem to be plenty of people on the trail. This is reassuring and provides safety while at times campgrounds feel crowded especially if they don't offer a lot of space like Thrasher Cove or Camper Creek. I image there are a lot less people after labour day on the trail which adds to its mystique in one way but adds maybe some more risk in case of an emergency. Also I imagine the weather is much cooler in September. Similar considerations probably apply for May and June.
  • No or virtually no mosquitos.
  • Seeing so much wildlife was an unexpected treat.
  • I could have improved my physical preparation in Ottawa: I was perfectly fine in terms of stamina on the trail thanks to regular walks and bicycle rides mostly along the Ottawa River. I should have sprinkled in some longer stairs like going multiple times up and down from the River to Parliament Hill. Even better I could have picked a forest trail around Ottawa that had a suitable longer fallen tree trunk nearby to add walking/balancing forward backward with a backpack on that trunk once or twice a week.
Right now, nothing else comes to mind. It was simply a superb hike for us.

Martin

10 comments:

  1. We used chlorine drops on our trip over the rockies. The water sources requiring sterilization were pretty good in most cases so using a filter system seems to add unnesessary bulk and weight. We found that the resulting water had a chlorine last but it was no worse than city tap water. The only disadvantage was that it takes 30 minutes to work or longer depending on the temperature of the water.

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  2. How cold was the water along the trail for swimming? Do you regret not taking a break day on the trail?

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    1. Just notice that I have yet to answer the break day portion of your question: No, I have no regrets. It was a joint decision not to have a break day at Bonilla campground. In hindsight we could have also stayed one day longer at Walbran Creek as well and simply sit out the intermittent rainy/misty day underneath the tarp. But this is idle speculation: There was no recent weather forecast and it is understood that even a new forecast can be obsolete after 24 hours despite being accurate in our case for about 6 days. As I mentioned in the blog: There were also lot of hints for going south people that the last 3 days are the "truly tough" ones and so maybe we needed an additional break somewhere there ... We moved on. I have no regrets. In hindsight given the weather we could have stayed at Bonilla or Walbran a day longer.

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  3. What did you take for food? Did you for example have a standard breakfast ? And, did you rely on getting things along the way?

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  4. During our Banff 10+ hike we encountered lots of folks using a 2 chemical liquids (you added drops from two different substances) for water treatment. Supposedly you could drink the stuff after 10 minutes (or maybe even shorter). For sure 2 of these tiny bottles are lighter and take less volume. I have not drunk water treated like that so I have no clue. Margaret actually had such 2 bottles with her just as a backup but it wasn't necessary to use it.

    The water temperature of ponds at Tsusiat Falls and Walbran Creek was probably in the 18 to 20C area. It was a welcome cool down, at least for me since I sweated a lot. In Tsusiat I went swimming within 10 minutes of our arrival, at Walbran within the first hour after building up the tents and filtering a lot of water upstream.

    Food: We had plenty of food. We were planned for worst-case 10 days. In fact we eat almost all of our rotini/spaghetti type noodles in the actual 7 days on the trail. I thought we had a lot of them but we kept eating every evening. We had oatmeal/granola type breakfasts with some of us adding milk-powder as well. We always had multiple bowls of Lipton-type chicken noodle soups for breakfast as well. We typically ate nuts, dried fruits and power bars during our mini breaks (and some chocolate bars while they lastet). At the end we were left with plenty of chicken noodle soups and other soups. You can't buy or get food aside from having a lunch at Nitinat Narrows and at Chez Monique. Having lunch at both places was more of a "luxury" and less of a "need". The stuff you can eat or buy there will not last (at least I did not see fruits and the canned coke/beer stuff is heavy and you have to carry the empty cans out). What is maybe an option is to camp for several days at Carmanah campground and walk leisurely twice over for brunch and early dinner to "Monique's" and eat a burger or similar. This way you can probably save carrying the food for the time one spends at Carmanah and instead spend the cash.

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    1. We were going to get a gravity feed filter also but the reviews we read were not very positive for any of the available brands. In the end the extra bulk swung it for us. We'd maybe try it if canoe camping. We only got a small bottle of he two chemical Chlorine Dioxide sterilizer. We were pretty surprised just how long it lasted. We didn't finish using it for all of out last trip. 10 minutes is possible but the water has to be relatively warm and you need to use more of the chemical if you want to be bullet proof. Cryptosporidium seems to require longer to kill . Giardia seems to be the most common bacteria you want to get rid of which is the fastest to kill off.
      We did carry some coffee filters to filter out bugs and sediment but we only used these a couple of times. We didn't have any issues to drink water which was quite brown out of one boggy lake .

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    2. I can pass you my MSR anytime if you have a need.

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  5. Did you collate pictures taken by everyone else including yourself for the blog? What cameras did you guys use?

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    1. The pictures here are from 3 different cameras: A Nexus-5 phone from Margaret (only used some pictures on from day 6 (I thought the colors in the Owen Pt. cave looked much more realistic (deeper greens)) and day7). A Sony Cyber-shot DSC-RX100 with 20Mpxl (used by Margaret and me) and a Nikon 1 AW1 (waterproof and shockproof) with 14Mpxl used mostly by Hansi and Anna/Tobi. Probably 80% of all WCT pictures shown in the blog were made with the Nikon by Hansi and the rest are from the Sony (two thirds made by Margaret and the rest by me) and about two handful are from the Nexus by Margaret. The Sony ran out of power on day 5. It also experienced multiple times a shock either via falling to the ground or bumping with me or Margaret into something. The Sony was in a bright light green bag typically clipped somewhere on our chest (if you look carefully I am sure it is visible on some pictures).

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    2. Hansi had also some sort of fully charged mobile USB battery boost device with him on the WCT. With it he reloaded the battery of the Nikon once around day 5 or in the morning of day 6.

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